January 5-8, 2015 --Kochi

We left our hotel in Delhi at 11:15 a.m. (a few minutes away from the airport, for a 1:30 flight so JUST missed the SMS message from Air India that the flight was delayed an hour.  As it turned out, it was delayed 2 hours, and I think we finally left Delhi around 4 pm.  We had arranged with the hotel in Kochi to pick us up from the airport, so had to keep updating them on our whereabouts.

When we reached (as they say here) we emerged from the airport to a VERY humid, sticky hot evening and peered around to find our driver.  Thanks to the marvels of a cell phone, we learned he was, indeed, parked in front of the airport waiting for us, so loaded up our gear and soon we were heading out of Kochi (after two little stops for cold beer and an ATM).  This was very tropical weather, and nothing like the cool days and cold nights we had just left at Jim Corbett Park.

We got to the Lemon Tree in slightly under the 2-1/2 hours our driver predicted, and were pleased that the kitchen had been kept open for us.  Pan-fried, fresh caught fish (and chips).  Tiny little cup of julienne fries and good fish – not overcooked . Very glad for that beer stop too.  Turns out this resort doesn’t sell alcohol (though they tell you where to get it and also supply room fridges).



We were upgraded to a great room overlooking the lake and the swimming pool. The full moon was a big orange ball above the water outside our window as we walked into our still-dark room.   Turns out the sun comes up over the lake too, so we enjoyed a beautiful sunrise this morning.  Paradise Found.

View from our window

The room lit. says that this place is known for massages and other wellness treatments.  “100 years of legacy in Ayurveda Tradition deep-rooted through Generations.”  Rob has NEVER had a massage and I, only one.  So, we decided we should treat ourselves.  Turns out that there is only one table (though two masseur/masseuse so would have to go at separate times for a one-hour massage for Rs.1900 ( $40).

I went out and about with the binos while Rob got the full treatment this morning, and when he emerged, he was dripping and looked like he had spent a week in a steam cabinet.  Turned out to be oil all over him – not sweat, and they gave him special soap with which to shower. (To degrease, I guess).  I guess I will be Greasy McGee on Thursday morning after MY massage, before we check out and head for Alleppey.  I decided not to SPA Wednesday  morning as instead we are taking a car at 9 a.m. to Fort Kochi (the historic part of the city) for the day.  My cousin has given me some “must see” ideas.

After Rob’s massage, we booked a three-hour, covered boat ride to take us out into and around the lake.  We were supposed to head towards an island across from this resort, but never got there as we spent most of our time getting the driver to stop – back and fill –start again – again and again, just to photograph birds.  What a pleasant ride up through the canals – with wind in the hair, and delicious, cooler lake air.  Well, we saw two new kinds of bee-eater – the Blue-Tailed, and THEN, the Chestnut-headed bee-eater.   Also - a first-ever Jacana and Purple Swamp Hen.  This last is like our Purple Gallinule.

Hansi

Rob post massage on lake boat

Purple Swamp Hen

Bronze-winged jacana

Blue-tailed Bee-eater

 Will attach pix and conclude in another email.  Forgot to mention that we saw this Stork-billed Kingfisher from the dining room window.  A big guy - we hadn't seen before (or since drat) at 35 cm.

Stork-billed Kingfisher

January 1-3, 2015 -- In India

Happy New Year, Everyone!

New Year’s Day, we boarded the 3 o’clock Elephant to parts unknown. Our mahout (pronounced ma- hot) seemed to know the English words for many animals and birds and was good at spotting things, stopping Coleena (his elephant) whenever we wanted to take a photo,  or even backing her up if need be. 

It was just amazing to be sneaking through the underbrush atop our huge elephant, and yes, it DID seem like sneaking – because the spotted deer, sambar deer, tree full of langurs, and even a kingfisher that we passed by very close, appeared unware of us – or at least, not threatened by a common, garden-variety elephant. It was SO peaceful. Coleena would pause every now and again when she came upon a favourite plant or small tree, and use her trunk to strip off a large bunch of succulent leaves which she stuffed into her mouth – not caring much that Mahout was against it. One thing that was surprising to us was that Coleena could negotiate very narrow paths – as if she actually puts on foot in front of the other – or ALL feet in front of each other.  Hard to imagine how she could climb up out of the river on a two-foot wide dirt path without toppling over on one side or the other because of sheer bulk. Good at balancing. Made me think of Hannibal crossing the Alps with elephants. 

Spotted Deer

Langur

I want an elephant.

Today we awoke to gentle rain, which has become slightly heavier and does not look like it will be abating. So, we used some of the morning before breakfast to organize photos and get emails written. It seems to be warm enough to sit out on our veranda (in outerware, as the sun is not out to really heat things up) so we can actually get out without getting WET.  But, we do have our trusty collapsible umbrellas with us, so a walk out to the main road is a definite possibility for this afternoon. (We didn’t go.)

It rained the entire day, as it turned out. Poured until night, and then again during the night. Today, however, has been cloudy/sunny but no rain, so we had a chance to walk up the road for an ATM (yes, Folks, they’re EVERYWHERE!) some Kleenex, and to do some scouting.

We saw several  Grey Hornbills feeding in a tree, and the raucous sounds coming from another tree turned out not to be Hornbills (as we thought) but Peacocks.  We came across a good co-ed school on the main road – read the sign – fairly dilapidated – and waved to girls inside who wanted to say hello to us, but did NOT want to be caught in a photo. Public schools here, even the good schools, are in a very run-down condition by our standards. We take our modern or upgraded, well equipped, well-stocked places of learning for granted. Cute, cute kids inside, BTW.

School girls

Passed  a tiny little Doctor’s Office on the way to the ATM (Bank of India).

Doctor's Office

Here’s something–

Outside our abode is a stand of bamboo, and it totally looks like it came from the Dollar Store.

Granted, it IS tall, and I doubt the Dollar Store would have this size, but still . . .  The stalks appear to have been stained turmeric yellow, and painted with fine dark green lines of various thicknesses. They just look so FAKE!  Does all bamboo look like this?

"Dollar Store" Bamboo?

Tomorrow morning, we leave at 7 a.m. in a hired car for Delhi (250 km)  and to give you an example of road conditions here (and traffic as we approach Delhi) this trip will take a minimum of 6 hours. 

The following day, Monday, we fly to Kochi (or Cochin – if you still have the old Atlas).  If anything good happens on our way to Delhi, I shall report it.

January 3, 2015 -- Neighbourhood Industry

Well, I have gone on and on about the goods which a person can buy from vendors literally “pedaling” their wares on our street – from fruit, to veggies, to brooms, to plastic ware, to carpets and even nylon strapping – webbing used for lawn chairs but also used for daybeds here.  This webbing is in rolls of various widths, and rides behind the vendor on his bike rack – stacked, starting from biggest to smallest rolls, in a colourful pyramid.

Anyway, what I wanted to add was this – not only goods but services come to the homeowner this way.  I saw a fellow with cart attached to bike who had rods and a pole with a convex cup about 4 inches in diameter attached , and realized he was calling out that he was a plumber (the drains – with grate, thank God – under all sinks and on bathroom floors are 4 inch diameter).

Similarly, a young guy with an empty cart (except for a hoe) went calling past – a neighbour came to her gate and called him back – pointed to the edge of her - and our – driveways. Next thing I knew, he was digging up the broken tiling on either side of the driveways. Then he disappeared with his cart full of rubble –came back minutes later with the makings for cement, which he whomped up on the road in front of our house, and quickly paved the dug-out places. Service!

Cement Repair

Gardeners arrive on bikes with shears (to cut the grass) and other tools I guess, and I have told you about the car washers, who arrive early morning on a bike – with bucket and rag - to wash homeowners’ vehicles. 

The ironing wala has put up a lean-to around the corner -  attached to the wall of one of the houses. He has become the neighbourhood ironing guy. He picks up the ironing, and delivers it too. Homeowners don’t seem to mind at all that this rather unattractive shed has been built against their property. Every neighbourhood seems to have an ironer.  A very accepting culture.  I don’t think I would be overjoyed to find a structure nailed to MY house – even if I got free ironing.

Ironing Wala's Lean-to

BTW, my sister asked if the reason the pink rickshaw had canvas sides, was because it was for women who didn't want to be seen. The answer is No. Most rickshaws have snap-on flaps in winter to keep out some of the cold air.

We stopped at a fruit stand on our way to Corbett because we saw huge yellow somethings.  They turned out to be pomelos, which are called chakodra.

Chakodra or pomelo

December 30, 2014 -- Birds - Dehradun Trip and Resort

Hansi has included some bird photos with but I figured I'd just provide you "the works"! These are birds we've seen and successfully (more or less) photographed - we've seen more but I couldn't capture 'em.

The egret was following the cows and jumping up to snatch ticks(?) and just made me laugh. I've heard of "Meals On Wheels" but this . . . words do not come to me.

Egret snacks

Obviously, we're having a great time and looking forward to Kerala (may need to buy a Birds of Southern India).

Rob

Egyptian Vulture

White-throated Fantail

Sarus Cranes

Asian Openbill

December 30, 2014 -- Continuing Vacation Saga

We left early Tuesday morning for the final leg of the journey to Jim Corbett Park. Good weather again – sunny and very warm. We did some good birding along the way -- storks and vultures and cranes, oh my! Don’t worry, pictures attached. What’s that? You’re saying you are NOT worried? You’re saying, “Oh crap, not more BIRD PICTURES!” 

Well – too bad!

Anyway, we arrived at our resort -- called Nadiya Parao -- not quite in the park but in Corbett which skirts the park.  A great place, and quite luxurious by our standards. It did have me worried for a minute though, as Jonny drove down their long driveway past construction materials, workers, half-finished buildings looking like they might SOMEDAY be a resort. All I could think was The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel.  However, at the end of the driveway was, indeed, a beautiful resort. There are several buildings of cottages, a large lovely dining hall on the lawn, and a reception house. I believe that our building has two apartments on top (we are one of them) and four below. The top two share a great hall/lounge area, (as do the bottom four – a different one, obviously.)  Inside, we have a huge living space, an alcove housing the armoire and coffee area around the corner, and a spacious bathroom. But the best part is a very large veranda, surrounded by overhanging trees, in one of which I yesterday discovered a monkey (langur) staring back at me from eye-level. That settles it – I‘m in heaven!

Our first night, in bed with Rob asleep, I thought I heard a baby crying, and then many – and then I realized I was hearing jackals howling in the night nearby. Then in the morning – when the coffee was made – we heard them again, and sure enough, they were out there is the predawn dark baying their little hearts out. Rushed out onto our balcony but could see nothing. Imagine! I’m hearing JACKALS outside my window. What a RUSH!

Wednesday we went on a jeep safari into the park grounds. There was a chance we would see a tiger – they say the tiger number is 600 strong now. But, we didn’t. We had a driver and a “guide” but the guide actually seemed to know his birds and what to look for where, so we were glad to have him. Because of him, we spotted a Changeable Hawk Eagle calling, at the top of a tree. There were termite mounds aplenty, plus many spotted deer and sambar deer. 

Termite mound

Sarus Cranes

Asian Openbill

BTW, the guide stopped at the gate before our jeep proceeded -- for a bathroom break. He asked us if we needed to use the facilities and we both answered no. Here’s a tip. Say YES. If you take one jeep with minimal suspension, add many severely rutted, dirt tracks, dry, bouldery riverbeds, not-so-dry riverbeds and one old bladder, you are going to get a   V E R Y   L O N G   jeep ride.    

Rob in our jeep

We are in the foothills of the mountains, so the air is thinner and the sun feels deliciously warm. We are happy to have chosen to be here for 5 days.

Today we are taking an elephant to somewhere (great name for a book) and wherever that is, it takes two hours to return. We actually thought we were on the 1 o’clock elephant, but are booked for the 3 o’clock. Stay tuned for that report.

Hansi

December 29, 2014 -- Our Vacation Begins

Jonny arrived exactly at 9:30 so we loaded up the car with 4 suitcases, a computer case, camera bag tripod and my backpack and off we roared.

We had not even left the city when what should appear on the road next to us but the Pink Auto Rickshaw I was hoping to click. Mary Kay Rickshaw.

Mary Kay rickshaw

Though we have been having cold, cold weather with fog mornings and evenings, Monday started right out clear and sunny – and the temperature warmed by degrees until by mid-morning we were hot in the car. The mountains – in the direction we were headed – were visible for a change.  All in all, it was a perfect day to travel.

We stopped for a few bathroom breaks and managed to get some birdwatching in at each place. Not actually IN the bathrooms. The birds seemed to be as happy as we were with the sun and its warmth and were out in force.There  was a kettle of vultures in the air we just couldn’t photograph, but finally got a picture when one landed on a dry river bed,  and landed right next to another one already there that we had not even noticed – The Egyptian Vulture.  Rob will attach photos of the birds we snapped.

Egyptian Vulture

At lunch, we stopped beside a river where Jonny, our eagle-eyed driver, kept pointing out bird after bird.  We saw a beautiful Plumbeous Water Redstart bathing in a shallow spot, and then close by, the White-capped Water Redstart.

Jonny drives for Benipal Tours, so has taken this route many times and thus was able to tell us, “In 15 kilometers, there is a big statue of Shiva” and other points of interest coming up.  Very handy! We were passing truck after overloaded truck full of sugar cane – on their way to a huge sugar mill a few kilometers further along, Jonny explained.

Statue of Shiva

Other statues along the route

We stopped in Dehradun, as planned, late afternoon. Though we had only travelled about 160 km, we didn’t make good time – due to traffic snarls in every little town, winding narrow mountain roads and of course, stops for birdwatching. 

Rob and I decided to walk around a bit before dinner. The gates to our nice hotel were right on the main road through town – Rajpur Road – and this road, like all the little roads in all the little towns, was solid, wall-to-wall teeny tiny shops shoe-horned next to each other, and teeming with activity though well after dark at 8 pm. I took a picture of a very busy, if mini, auto garage, where mechanics were busily at work despite the hour. Put up your hand if you have ever had to stay overnight in a strange town because your car broke down after hours and all the mechanic shops were closed until morning.Well then, this is the country for you! 

Auto Repair Shop working into the night

No photos we have taken can convey the sheer numbers of people here in India though we have tried to show it on the road going through little towns. Yesterday we were caught in a snarl coming up to an intersection of two narrow roads.We literally went NOWHERE for half an hour. Every ten minutes or so, Jonny would restart the ignition and inch up two feet. We could not make any headway  because  bikes, motorbikes, scooters, horses, could all scrape past on either side – constantly filling up any void left when a car or truck cleared that congested intersection.  (For intersection, read “two broken, narrow roads running perpendicular to each other.)

Hansi